Cultures clash stylishly and nature’s still in the mix at The Corduroy Hotel, Canggu

By creammagazine, February 1, 2025

The post-pandemic traveller to Bali isn’t content with staying in the usual, touristy spots. Rather, they’ll trek a few miles more to get to somewhere a little less spoilt, like Canggu. Situated northwest of Seminyak, it’s about a half-hour drive there (if you’re catching a Bluebird taxi), or you could dinky on the back of a Gojeck motorbike and live a little (helmet on, always).

When you do get to Canggu you immediately sense a more laidback vibe than what you’re used to in Bali. Mind you, most roads are haphazard due to the great number of bikes zipping in and out of the place, but once you’ve settled in, you’ll sense an increase in calm.

Nestled in the middle of Canggu is a small area where the river cuts through short jungle, and just next to it is The Corduroy Hotel, a boutique property that oozes style and taste, and cool and calm, but occasionally yells “I want an Insta pic of me here, here and here”.

The first thing you notice is the swimming pool, the bottom of which is painted with wide green and white stripes, and looking very Palm Springs with the foliage of the jungle as backdrop.

This is the kind of hotel that the beautiful people stay at. There’s an apothecary cabinet, like, literally in the middle of the lobby, and supermodels on the wall in photographs by Robert Mapplethorpe, Helmut Newton and the like.

Owner and decorator Ozlem Esen, a darling fashionista herself, has done a brilliant job in reconstructing and decking out the place. Esen overlooked the immense task of retrofitting what was once a monastery and has turned it into something altogether retro-classic, uber-cool.

Sourcing wares picked up from markets around the globe there are rusted picture frames, first-edition books, colourful coasters and vintage bric-a-brac on just about every surface in the share spaces. Don’t panic, though, the rooms are left a little more minimalist in decor… but we’ll get to those.

The lobby is spacious with its concrete floors and an occasional Turkish rug here and there. Exposed wooden beams gleam without a hint of wear, not surprisingly since the hotel has only been opened since August 2023. The walls are dotted with picture frames of all shapes encasing black-and-white and colour photographs, looking like rare collected species of butterfly. If museum/gallery was the look Ozlem was after in decking out the lobby, she’s succeeded.

To one side of the lobby is a communal bathroom that would have made Marie Antoinette feel right at home. It’s the perfect spot to touch up the lippy before that Insta photo session. Here, a Louis XVII-style accent chair sits opposite a porcelain toilet, gold tap fixtures glint in competition with brass light fittings… you get the decadent picture.

Each of the guest rooms has been designed with a different palette and mood board in mind. There’s the ‘Middle Italy’ room, which we stayed in on our first night, drawing direct influences in decor from the rustic countryside of Tuscany. The king bed is puffed-up and comfy; the bathroom runs the length of the room and is semi-outdoors, and there’s a general bella figura about the whole space.

That room is juxtaposed with the ‘Miyake’ room – inspired by famed Japanese designer, Issey Miyake, of course. Here, minimalism speaks volumes, with bare concrete floor and walls, simple black linen, and a seiza-friendly sitting and dining space keeping things pared back. But lay down on that big bed and look up and you’ll see half the ceiling is mirrored. So, really it’s kinda Miyake meets hentai.

What I really liked about the Miyake room was the bathroom – so big, and half of it is just shower space. Like the ‘Middle Italy’ room, the bathroom is semi-outdoors and by that I mean there is sheer sheet for a ceiling that lets in the natural sunlight. Recycled Hendricks Gin bottles hold bamboo plants while palm plants fill the other corners of the en suite.

Every room at The Corduroy has air conditioning, plus generous wardrobe space, wi-fi and safety deposit box, while select rooms – like the Miyake – come with a balcony that offers pool and forest views.

If you’re lucky, you might spot Elvis the Parrot while you’re at The Corduroy.

The staff here are locally hired and all very helpful, yet half the time you wouldn’t know they were there since reception is in a small bungalow at the entrance.

Once you’ve settled into The Corduroy’s laidback vibe (the beats-per-minute in background music in the lobby rarely get higher than 110) you’ll sense you’re in an oasis of a retreat.

If you want to venture out of the hotel (although, really, look at this place – who would want to?), famous Echo Beach is just 1.5kms away while Batu Bolong Beach is next on the map. Popular social hang, La Brisa, is just a ten-minute walk away, and there’s plenty else to do in Canggu including market-hopping, surfing (if you’re so inclined), boutique-shopping, or bike-riding to the temples in Tanah Lot.

Wellbeing is a key focus of The Corduroy. The hotel offers over a dozen in-room treatments including massages, acupuncture, and a variety of facial and spa treatments. But it’s The Corduroy’s infusion and/or collagen packages that the beautiful folk are drawn to. One such package, ‘The Corduroy 01’, for example, includes vitamin, saline and electrolyte infusions that help to restore nutrients, lead to better hydration, boost immunity, and increase energy – all ideal for those big Bali hangovers. The price of infusion packages start at around AUD200.

There are also physical activities available including yoga and boxing lessons, or you could ask the friendly staff to organise a day trip out for you.

Personally, I spent a third of my days just lounging by the pool, and after a week of shopping and dining out in busy Seminyak, days by the pool suited me just fine.

Antonino Tati