Maestro: the Italian pizzeria in North Beach that’s teaching the competition how to properly serve pizza

My favourite selection on the Maestro menu: the Truffle Wagyu pizza.
Owned and run by Italian ex-pats, Andrea Brunelli and his partner Chiara Mezzasoma, Maestro restaurant is a welcome addition to Flora Terrace in North Beach – actually it’s something the terrace desperately needed what with a lot of the stores along it looking kind of faded. In fact, on the night we visited it was the only venue on the strip that actually had people frequenting it (even Yolo looked closed).
Established in September 2020, though not yet operating from said premises, Andrea figured that making pizza would be a fun pasttime during the pandemic. A couple of pizzas for friends soon doubled, and then doubled again, and again, and again, and before he knew it, a fully fledged hospitality business had been born. A friend in real estate recommended the site in North Beach and now it’s being hailed as one of the best pizzerias in Perth.
In just over five years, Maestro has won several awards and is the only WA pizzeria named in the Asia Pacific Top 50 Pizza guide.
‘Maestro’ is the Italian word for ‘master’ and Andrea is certainly a master at the cooking game. Both he and Chiara manage the menu, which features appetizers, pizzas as mains (both tomato sauce based, and mozzarella based), a couple of pasta dishes, and some delectable looking desserts. For the most part, the menu sticks to the basics of Italian cooking but, boy, is the mix of its basic ingredients the absolute freshest and best – be it the wagyu beef or pork salsiccia, rocket or arugula, mozzarella or burrata, but more about those ingredients to come.
There’s a classic rule in Italian cooking that a really good dish should stick to just three ingredients, and it seems Andrea and his team pretty much abide by this rule, although they occasionally go all decadent on a fourth ingredient. Well, okay, sometimes a fifth.
One particular example is the Truffle Wagyu pizza (pictured top of article), featuring a mozzarella base, and topped with wagyu bresaola (meaning the beef has been salt-cured and air-dried), finely cut mushrooms, truffle paste, and something called fior di latte. In researching this poetic-sounding ingredient (pictured left), I discovered it translates directly as ‘milk flower’ and indeed is a soft cheese that looks like mozzarella but is traditionally made using cow’s milk not buffalo milk. It ends up with a softer texture than mozzarella and goes perfectly on several of Maestro’s pizzas – including the Diavola (or ‘Devil’ pizza, with spicy salame), and the confidently named Indominus Rex (packed with pork sausage and nduja – a Calabrian chili pork paste).
For the more traditionalist diner, there is the option of a Margherita pizza – best topped with anchovies – or the Suprema, which we sampled – packed as a good Supreme pizza should be, with black olives, red onion, green capsicum, spicy salame, pork salsiccia, mushrooms and that now-famous fior di latte.

The Suprema – that’s Italian for ‘Supreme’, doncha know.
If you’re watching your carbs, you might like to choose from the Appetizers menu which includes delicious Italian staples such as arancini (containing a bolognese sauce and Maestro’s house-made aioli), polpette al sugo (traditional meatballs in a Napoletana sauce, served with house-made sourdough), and a Caprese salad consisting simply of rocket, Roma tomatoes, buffalo mozzarella and basil.

Polpette al sugo, aka: delicious meatballs.
The restaurant also leans into playful creativity, especially come dessert time. We were rather full after sharing a couple of appetizers and pizzas (a decent size each). Sweet offerings include a house-made tiramisu that many a local touts as the best, an affogato (espresso coffee and two scoops of gelato), and even ‘Fatboi Oreo & Nutella Brownies’ which I thought you could only get from Spud Shed!
If high-quality Italian at a very fair price is what you’re after in your next trip to the coast, make Maestro a must-visit.
Maestro is situated at the lucky-sounding address of 111C Flora Terrace, North Beach. Visit maestropizza.com.au to view the full menu and for bookings. Or phone your booking in on (08) 9448 8851. There’s plenty of free parking just next door.
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